Benares-style necklace

This necklace consists of rows of seed pearls and a large floral pendant set with emerald and white sapphires. The reverse is richly enameled with lotus flowers in the Benares-style, as seen by the characteristic use of pink enamel on white background.The gems are set in gold in the kundan technique. The kundan-set is one of the oldest forms of jewellery making in India and involves layering narrow strips of gold (kundan) to form a solid wedge around the gemstone. Pearl necklaces like this are worn by men and women and depicted as a classic form of adornment in Mughal portraits of the period. They are often a unique combination of kundan-set gems and enameling. Traditional Mughal jewellery is still made in this manner today.