This dress is made in the style of a Chinese jacket, but for the European market, illustrating the rise in interest for Chinese inspired clothing in Europe during the late nineteenth and early twentieth century. The coat is made of dark blue-black silk, which was the colour of a court official. It has a wave hem, auspicious motifs including the infinity knot, or pán cháng (盤長) and butterflies embroidered in Pekin knot. Roundels on the coat also bear embroidered figures of the eight immortals. The West had used Chinese culture, among other cultures, as inspiration for fashion for centuries. By the early 20th century, publications such as Vogue magazine advertised Chinese robes, including mandarin robes worn by court officials, as loungewear, evening wear or even a bathrobe. Designers of the era such as Paul Poiret and Georges Doeuillet used materials, motifs and silhouettes commonly found in China to create garments in Europe.
