Gold buckle with faceted granulation

Title

Year/Period

19th century

Region

Riau-Lingga Archipalego, Indonesia

Object Type

belt buckles

Material

diamond (mineral), garnet (mineral), gold (metal), ruby (mineral)

Technique

chasing (metalworking), engraving (action), filigree work (metalwork ), goldsmithing, granulation, repoussé

Dimension

Object size: L17.3 x W10.5 x H3.6 cm

Accession No.

2001-03805

Collection of

Asian Civilisations Museum

Credit Line

Purchased with funds from the Lee Foundation

This belt buckle (pending) is an example of the most popular form, an eye-shaped design with a stepped edge. Pending were used by both men and women to secure a metal or textile belt around the waist. This pending is decorated with floral and vegetal designs that are representative of Malay repoussé work from Riau-Lingga and south-eastern Sumatra. The design is further enhanced with wire filigree and a ruby surrounded by 28 diamonds arranged in concentric bands, which provides the focal point for the design. In former times precious stones of such high quality were very rare and highly sought after by aristocratic Malays, who used them as a sign of wealth and for the magical properties they were believed to possess.