Cloud collar

Title
Cloud collar
Year/Period
early 20th century
Region
China
Dimension
Gross measurement: 87.0 x 67.0 cm
Accession No.
2018-01311
Collection of
Credit Line
Gift of Cynthia, Larry, Celia, Carol and Lawrence Chia, in memory of their parents Chia Teck Loke and Ong Siew Choo.

This bridal phoenix collar is made of small, hooked tabs with contrasting colours, layered into three rows to imitate the ruffs of a phoenix (symbol of the empress and of benevolence). It has five hangings - one knot with a padded mirror, and four necktie-shaped strips with tassels at the end. Motifs of birds and ladies are sewn throughout the garment using gold thread. It would have been worn by the bride on the first day of the traditional pre-war 12-day Peranakan wedding, over an elaborately decorated wedding robe and skirts. This object belonged to Wee Bee Neo, a prominent Sang Khek Umm or mistress of wedding ceremonies. As a wedding specialist, she was in charge of the bride’s hair and jewellery, and guiding the young lady through the proper rituals. Sang Khek Umm sometimes loaned out wedding items for a fee, although it is unclear if this object was ever rented.